Grand Tourists at Soulton: Primary Sources Shed Light on Historic Visitor Destination
It is worth sharing a couple of primary sources that discuss visits to Soulton the the Grand Tour period.
Elizabeth Hill, wife of Thomas Hill of Soulton and daughter of Richard Corbet
An Excursion from Sidmouth to Chester, in the Summer of 1803: In a series of letters to a lady, Part 1. by Rev Edmund Butcher, 1805 is intersting because:
- it participates in a silly and enduring confusion about the family lineage by failing to identify that the Corbet family residing at Soulton in 1805 is the same family as the Hills. Unfortunately, enthusiasts and amateur historians often overlook the fact that family lines like ours can (and often do) follow female descent, and that women play a significant role in genealogy and culture — which is obvious when you think about it (and it is deeply sexist when you cannot/do not entertain the idea).
- highlights the existence of “curious painted glass” that is now lost. Unfortunately, we can no longer see what it looked like. However, we do know that the house built by Bach-y-graig, (inspired by Soulton and alsovisited by Grand Tourist Samuel Johnson), also featured such stained glass, in this case depicting the Jerusalem cross.
The other house, that demands notice, is an ancient mansion, pleasantly situated, and in good repair, called Soulton-hall. It contains some curious painted glass in the windows, and some valuable family pictures, and is now the residence of a branch of the Corbett-family.
– An Excursion from Sidmouth to Chester, in the Summer of 1803: In a series of letters to a lady, Part 1. Rev Edmund Butcher, 1805
Bach-y-Graig, Tremeirchion – visited long with Soulton/Hawkstone by Grand Tourist Dr Samuel Johnson
Views of the seats of noblemen and gentlemen, in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. Second series by Neale, John Preston, 1780-1847 is intersting becuse it underlines the dunastic way the Hill family is running (in particualr where male hier who carry thier link via a monther at times change back to the Hill name) and also records once again that the Hill spelling was not fimly happening with an ‘i’ intil relitively recently.
This source also contains inaccuracies, though in subtle ways. This can be explained by two factors: the sensitivity surrounding the family history and the need for Soulton to publicly acknowledge Hawkstone’s seniority as a Viscount’s residence. The complexity of the situation likely proved too much for a casual audience, who wouldn’t have been able to fully grasp the nuances anyway.
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE THOMAS NOEL HILL, LORD BERWICK.
The situation of Attingham Hall is peculiarly fine; the river Tern, gliding in front, unites itself with the Severn within view of the Mansion, which is a noble edifice, built from designs by the celebrated Athenian Stuart. It consists of a centre and two wings, connected by corridors, and is adorned by a handsome tetrastyle portico of the Composite order.
The elegant Picture Gallery was erected by the present Lord Ber wick, to contain a very fine collection of pictures and statues, as well as Etruscan vases, and other antiquities, chiefly from Herculaneum; also, a very curious model of Mount Vesuvius, upon a great scale, made of the materials of the mountain by the late tasteful traveller, Dr. Clarke: this model was constructed with such accuracy of outline, and justness of proportions, that Sir William Hamilton pronounced it to be the best ever produced of the kind, either by foreigner or native. Some of the valuable pictures have been since removed from Attingham, and were disposed of in 1826, including the Virgin and Child, by Murillo, from the Santa Cruz Collection ; Christ restoring the Blind to sight, by N. Poussin, formerly in the gallery of Mons. de Calonn ; and the Continence of Scipio, by Rubens, from the Orleans Collection, one of the finest productions of the master, and which is said to be a companion to a picture by the same artist, in the possession of Lord Darnley.
Attingham Park and Pleasure Grounds were greatly improved under the direction of Repton, who made a new channel for the river Tern, which, rising in the north of the county, is now united with the Severn, immediately in front of the House, having its banks adorned with the most beautiful plantations. The span of the arch of the new Tern bridge, which unites the property on either side of the river, is one hundred feet. The Severn, afterwards, passes under Attingham bridge, and by the ruins of Buildwas Abbey towards Colebrook Dale. Our View is taken in the Park near the bridge. The paternal name of this branch of the family of Hill, was Harwood: Margaret, daughter of Rowland Hill, Esq., of Hawkestone, married Thomas Harwood, Esq., of Shrewsbury; their son assumed the name of Hill, in right of his mother.
Thomas Hill, Esq., of Tern Hall, as this seat was originally called, many years represented the town of Shrewsbury in Parliament : he married Susanna Maria, the daughter and co-heiress of William Noel, Esq., Judge of the Common Pleas, and died in 1782, aged about ninety. His son and heir, Noel Hill, Esq., was elected in three Parliaments M.P. for the county of Salop ; and on the 19th May, 1784, was created Lord Berwick, of Attingham. At his death, in 1789, he was succeeded by his eldest son, the present Lord Berwick.
Sir Rowland Hill, Knt., who was Lord Mayor of London in the reign of Edward VI., was one of the richest and most considerable merchants of his time. He performed great acts of generosity, and was an eminent benefactor to the public: besides founding Drayton, and other free schools, he built Stoke and Hodnet churches, as well as Atcham, or Attingham, and Terne bridges, at his own expense. He was buried in St. Stephen’s Church, Walbrook, London.
Hawkstone
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE ROWLAND HILL,
LORD HILL, G.C.B., K.T.S., K.M.T., K.S.G.
HARDWICK Grange is situated six miles from Shrewsbury, in a pleasant part of the county, amid beautiful eminences abounding with wood. It has lately been re-built in the Gothic style, by Thomas Harrison, Esq., of Chester, under the direction of Lord Hill : the design evinces much propriety of taste, and the plan comprises every desirable convenience: there are two projections connected with the centre by au arcade or cloister, the ends of the front terminate in a gable ; but much of the principal edifice, is embattled. This Mansion is adorned by some beautiful painted windows, the work of that ingenious artist, Mr. David Evans, of Shrewsbury, which are unique in design, produce the most brilliant effect, and are of very elaborate execution. In the Dining-room is a Portrait of the Duke of Wellington, by George Dawe, Esq., R.A., as also a full-length Portrait of Lord Hill, by Sir William Beechey, R. A. The Pleasure Grounds have a varied surface, and admit a succession of the most pleasing views of the neighbouring country.
It appears, by the visitation of Shropshire, made in the year 1623, that the family name of the noble proprietor was originally written Hull, from their residence at a place so called in this county. Hugh Hull, living in the reign of Edward II., married Eleanor, the daughter and co-heiress of Hugh de Wlonkeslow, and was the father of William Hull, Esq., of Hull and Wlonkeslow, who flourished in the reign of Richard II.
Humphrey, his grandson, was commonly called Hill, as his descendants have since been. He resided at Buntingdale, and married Agnes, the daughter and co-heiress of John Bird, of Charlton, by whom he had three sons : William, ancestor to the Hills, of Hill Court, in this county; Thomas, seated at Malpas, and Hodnet, father of Sir Rowland Hill, Knt., Lord Mayor of London, fourth Edward VI.; and Ralph, father of William Hill, of Blechley, who also had three sons, of whom, William the eldest, became ancestor to the Hills of Blechley and Soulton.
Rowland Hill, the eldest son and heir of Humphrey Hill, of Blechley, was living at Hawkstone, in Shropshire, anno 1592; he had one son, Rowland Hill, Esq., who died in 1644; father of another Rowland Hill, Esq., of Hawkstone, a gentleman who was remarkable for his great piety, charity, and wisdom ; he suffered very much in the beginning of the civil wars of King Charles the First’s time, by coming to the relief of his father, whom the parliamentarians had detained prisoner in the castle near Hawkstone. His grandson, Rowland Hill, Esq., was created a baronet, 20th January, 1727; and by Jane, the daughter of Sir B. Broughton, Bart., he was father of Sir Richard Hill, second baronet, who represented the County of Salop, in five successive Parliaments, and died in 1809, aet. seventy- five ; and Sir John Hill, who was M.P. for the Town of Shrewsbury for eleven years, and succeeded his brother, as third baronet; by Mary, the daughter of John Chambre, Esq., of Petton, in this county, he was the father of Lord Hill, who has so gallantly distinguished himself in the service of his country, not only during the arduous and protracted contest in the Peninsula, but in the memorable field of Waterloo. To commemorate his achievements his grateful countrymen have erected, at Shrewsbury, a Doric Column, surmounted by a statue of his lordship. On the north side of the pedestal, is the following inscription : —
To Lieutenant-General Rowland Lord Hill, Baron Hill of Almarez and Hawkstone, G.C.B., not more distinguished for his skill and courage in the field, during the arduous campaigns in Spain and Portugal, the South of France, and the memorable plains of Waterloo, than for his benevolent and paternal care, in providing for the comforts and supplying the necessities of his victorious countrymen, and for that humanity and generosity which their vanquished foes experienced and acknowledged: the inhabitants of the town and county of Salop have erected this column and statue as a memorial of their respect and gratitude to an illustrious contemporary, and an incitement to emulation in the heroes and patriots of future ages. A.D. MDCCCXVT.
THE SEAT OF SIR ROWLAND HILL, BART., M.P,
Hawkestone Park, a singularly beautiful spot about five miles North East from Wem, and about thirteen from Shrewsbury, has been the principal Residence of the family of Hill for nearly three centuries. The present Mansion stands on the slope of a romantic eminence, a short distance from the great road between Shrewsbury and Whitchurch. It was erected in the reign of George. I., by the Right Hon. and Rev. Richard Hill, LL. D., the uncle of Sir Rowland Hill, the first Baronet of this family, who afterwards added the wings to the edifice : considerable improvements were also made in the structure by Sir Richard Hill, the second Baronet. On the West Front, represented in our View, is a noble Portico of the composite order. The centre division of the edifice is crowned with a pediment; and the wings, which are spacious, are connected with the building by a bold colonnade. A handsome palisade is carried along the whole Front, inclosing a Court of entrance, and giving a noble air to the Mansion. The apartments are elegant, particularly the Saloon, in the centre of the House, a lofty and well proportioned room, containing, amongst other pictures, a large one of the Siege of Namur, in 1695. The five principal persons in this piece are portraits, viz. King William III., the Elector of Bavaria, John, Duke of Marlborough, Count Cohorn, and the Right Hon. Richard Hill, who was at that time Paymaster of the Army, a member of the Privy Council, and Envoy at the Court of Turin. The portraits in the Saloon are King William and Queen Mary, (whole lengths) Sir Thomas Hanmer, (speaker of the House of Commons,) General Lumley, and Admiral Churchill. In the same room is a fine picture of Mercury and Herse, believed to be an original by Paul Veronese ; but the one most worthy of observation is in a small room adjoining the entrance hall, the subject, Ships in a Storm, by Backhuysen.
The North Wing of the House is appropriated to the Chapel and Library. The ceiling of the Chapel is a representation of Truth appealing to Time for bringing her to light, — emblematical of the Reformation.
The Grounds at Hawkestone have long been the admiration of numerous visitors, who are conducted by a guide to the principal walks.
On the highest point of a beautiful Terrace is a column of freestone, one hundred and twelve feet [110 in fact] high, bearing a statue, with this inscription on its base:
THE RIGHTEOUS SHALL BE HAD IN EVERLASTING REMEMBRANCE.
Psalm cxi. 6.
The first stone of this Pillar was laid by Sir Richard Hill, Bart., Member in several Parliaments for this County, on the first day of October, in the year 1795 ; who caused it to be erected, not only for the various uses of an Observatory, and to feast the eye, by presenting to it, at one view, a most luxuriant and extensive prospect, which takes in not less than twelve (or, as some assert, fifteen) counties ; but from motives of justice, respect, and gratitude to the memory of a truly great and good man, viz. Sir Rowland Hill, Knt., who was born at the family Mansion of Hawkestone in the reign of King Henry the Seventh, and being bred to trade, and free of the city of London, became one of the most considerable and opulent merchants of his time, and was Lord Mayor of the same, in the second and third years of Edward the Sixth, anno 1549 and 1550, and was the first Protestant who filled that high office.
Having embraced the principles of the Reformation, he zealously exerted himself in behalf of the Protestant cause, and having been diligent in the use of all religious exercises, prayerful, conscientious, and watchful, (as a writer of his character expresses it,) yet trusting only in the merits of his Lord and Saviour, Jesus Christ, he exchanged this life for a better, a short while after the death of that pious young monarch, being aged nearly seventy years.
For a considerable time previous to his decease he gave up his mercantile occupations, that he might with more devotedness of heart attend to the great concerns of another world.
His lands, possessions, and church patronage, were immense ; particularly in the counties of Salop and Chester : the number of his tenants (none of whom he ever raised or fined,) amounting to one thousand one hundred and eighty-one, as appears from a Rental yet preserved, and copied from his own hand-writing.
But his private virtues, good deeds, and munificent spirit, were quite unlimited, and extended, like the prospect before us, East, West, North, and South, far surpassing all bounds. “Being sensible,” saith Fuller, (speaking of him in his Worthies of England,) ” that his
great estate was given him of God,” it was his desire to devote it to his glory. He built a spacious church in his own parish at Hodnet, and likewise the neighbouring church of Stoke, at his own expense. He built Tern and Atcham bridges in this county, both of hewn stone, and containing several arches each. He also built other large bridges of timber. He built and endowed several free schools, particularly that of Drayton. He made and paved divers highways for the public utility. He founded exhibitions, and educated many students at both Universities, and supported at the inns of court others who were brought up to the law.He was the unwearied friend of the widow and the fatherless. He clothed annually three hundred poor people in his own neighbourhood-, both with shirts and coats ; and in the city of London, he gave 500L, (an immense sum in those days) to St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, besides (saith Fuller) 600/. to Christ’s Church Hospital. He also gave most liberally to all other hospitals and at his death bequeathed 150/. to the poor of all the Wards in London.
He had no children, but his relations and kinsfolk were numerous, who all partook largely of his bounty, both in his lifetime and at his death. He constantly kept up a great family household, where he maintained good hospitality. Many resorted to him for his wise and
salutary advice ; and none who came to him were ever sent empty or dissatisfied away.Go and do thou likewise, as far as thy ability will permit, without injury to thy own relations.
Near a cavern, in a romantic valley called the Tower Glen, is a vase with the following inscription :
Anno 1784, this Urn was placed here by Sir Richard Hill, Bart., eldest son of Sir Rowland Hill, Bart., one of the Knights of this Shire, as a token of affection to the memory of his much respected ancestor, Rowland Hill of Hawkestone, Esquire, a gentleman remarkable for his great wisdom, piety, and charity, who, being a zealous royalist, hid himself in this Glen in the civil wars in the time of King Charles the First : but being discovered, was imprisoned in the adjacent castle, commonly called Red Castle, whilst his house was pillaged and ransacked by the rebels. The Castle itself was soon afterwards demolished. His son, Rowland Hill, Esq., coming to his assistance, also suffered much in the same loyal cause.
The above account, taken from Kimber’s Baronetage, as also from traditions of the family, holds forth to posterity the attachment of this ancient house to an unfortunate and much injured Sovereign.
– Views of the seats of noblemen and gentlemen, in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. Second series by Neale, John Preston, 1780-1847
Rowland Hill Monument, Hawkstone Park
Tour of a German Prince is quoted discussing the Soulton-Hawkestone landscape in A Description of Hawkstone, the Seat of Sir R. Hill, Bart M.P.: With Brief Notices of the Antiquities of Bury Walls and of Red Castle, an Account of the Column, in Shrewsbury and of Lord Hill’s Military Actions by T. Rodenhurst (1840) as follows:
Though I felt yesterday perfectly satiated with
PARKS, and thought I could never take any interest in
them again, I am quite of another mind to-day, and
must in some respects give Hawkstone the preference
over all I have seen. It is not art, nor magnificence,
nor aristocratical splendour, but Nature alone, to which
it is indebted for this pre-eminence; and in such a degree, that, were I gifted with the power of adding to its beauties, I should-ask,“WHAT CAN I ADD ?”
– Tour of a German Prince.
Painting of Hawkstone Hall in a cleaner phase of building
Finally, we ought to turn to the visit of Dr Johnson and his party, which is recorded in the flowing terms:
Upon the whole I con sider Hawkestone as a place of the first class in this Kingdom and never cease astonishing myself that it has escaped pompous description. As words, however, are but poor representations of things I do not much regret the loss of such reputation as words could give. This is a place which should be seen, and when it is seen is sure to be admired.
and also here:
by the extent of its prospects, the awfulness of its shades, the horrors of its precipices, the verdure of its hollows, and the loftiness of its rocks. The ideas which it forces upon the mind are, the sublime, the dreadful, and the vast. Above is inaccessible altitude: below is horrible profundity.
– A Diary of a Journey Into North Wales, in the Year 1774
by Samuel Johnson
********
Some more context for the above can be found in the ISENBROOKER report by James Wenn which is discussed here:
At Hawkstone Hall (part of the Sir Rowland Hill estate), the Hill Family’s new enlarged seat — replacing Soulton Hall as the principal facility for the family at the dawn of the eighteenth century, likely under advice from Christopher Wren — hospitality was conspicuous. The interiors and exteriors of the house today are a riot of fashionable extensions and revamps of every decade, as elite guests were entertained in lavish style.
The need to construct Hawkstone Hall was created by the inability of Old Sir Rowland Hill’s Tudor prodigy building (which was too sacred to demolish) to accommodate large groups of guests….
Long before the close of the eighteenth century, the volume of visitors to Hawkstone Hall forced Sir Richard Hill to plan extra accommodation, and in 1790 Hawkstone Park Hotel was built, broadly copying the massing of Robert Adam’s earlier hotel at Kedleston, but perhaps a greater stylistic borrowing from Wren, given the general style of the Hall to which it must defer.
Soulton Hall was the cultural and religious farthest destination point of the Grand Tour of England, owing to the legend of Old Sir Rowland, but most Grand Tourists saw Soulton from Hawkstone Follies on the cliffs, with the best views appreciated from the 110 feet high monumental column commemorating Sir Rowland Hill, appropriately featuring Protestant Biblical quotations. The Follies landscape was the world’s first theme park, and served as a compensation to international visitors for the unavailability of intimate encounters with Soulton itself.
