The allure of purple, especially Tyrian purple, has captivated civilizations for millennia. Its rarity and intense colour made it a symbol of wealth, power, and divinity.
George VI, in state robes and purple tunic for his coronation
From the ancient Phoenicians to the Roman emperors, purple was reserved for the elite. You can still see this practice in the dress of Kings of England at their coronations, including at the rite for HM King Charles III.
His Majesty King Charles III, at his Coronation
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In the Tudor period England negotiated great change and upheaval in England. It was also a time when the state sought to control not only the political and economic landscape but also the social fabric of the nation. One way they did this was through sumptuary laws.
These laws dictated what people could and could not wear, depending on their social status.
In fact, only the royal family was permitted to wear purple. This restriction was rooted in the high cost of producing purple dye, which was derived from a rare species of sea snail.
In this context, we might look more closely at the portrait of Sir Rowland Hill that is now in the collection of the Museum of London.
Sir Rowland Hill – Museam of London Image
Old Sir Rowland is wearing a Purple Persian Kaftan.
This fairly outrageous for a commoner.
And the eastern nature of the clothing is also very interesting.
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The association of purple with royalty and power can be traced back to ancient times.
The Roman Empire, known for its extravagance, took the regulation of purple to extreme lengths.
Only the emperor and those he designated could wear Tyrian purple. This strict enforcement was a testament to the colour’s symbolic power and the emperor’s desire to maintain his divine authority.
The Roman emperors wore purple togas, and the Byzantine emperors used purple as a symbol of their divine authority.
The Empress Theodora, the wife of the Emperor Justinian, dressed in Tyrian purple (6th century)
In Tudor England, this symbolism was carried forward. By reserving the colour purple for the royal family, the Tudors sought to reinforce their divine right to rule and to distinguish themselves from the common people.
A fragment of the shroud in which the Emperor Charlemagne was buried in 814 AD. It was made of gold and Tyrian purple from Constantinople.
